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VBF News
Volume 1, Issue 3


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Do You Know Your Sign is Upside-down?


VBF Show Schedule


Did You Bring Any Feed Today?


Rabbits Off Feed?


Judging Hollands by Pat Vanecek

5 1/2

What Do You Do For Flies?


A Cage For My Rabbit


Herbal Discussion


VBF Pickle Recipe


VBF Holland Lops 4 Sale

10 1/2

Meet Corey Vanecek


Jewelry & Stained Glass Stepping Stones


(Or how to clean rabbit cages the Vanecek way)

We clean our barns 4 times a year. One time is around the beginning of summer. Most of our rabbits have finished molting by then. Our barns are long and narrow. We have cages hanging on both sides. We have sloped cement floors. We push the manure out of the barns with a large squeegee after we sweep off the walkway.

When we clean a barn, we start by taking the rabbits out of the cages and putting them into carriers. Then we take down all the 3x5 coop cards and the plastic that covers them. Next we turn off the water system and disconnect the tubing between the cages. Then we make sure the cages are numbered. We mark a number on the feeder of each cage with a large magic marker. Now we’re ready to take the cages down & move them outside. Once outside we torch each cage and burn off the fur. Next step is to brush the fur and any calcium or lime deposits off the cages with a wire brush. We then wash the cage and water system off with a hose. Then we spray the cage with Spritz disinfectant. Finally we place them in the sun to dry.

While the cages are drying, I return to the inside of the barn and brush down the walls and ceiling with a broom. Sometimes it is necessary to torch inside too. Then I get out the hose and rinse off any residue.

Once everything has dried, we return the cages to the barn, reconnect the water system and finally put the rabbits back in their nice clean cages.

I can’t wait till my next day off! Pat

This newsletter is for the benefit of our customers. These are our opinions and the opinions of our customers. We make no claim as to their effectiveness and will assume no liability with their use.

We would again like to thank all the people who have contributed to our newsletter.  If you have an article or subject that you think would be of interest to the rest of our customers, please submit it to Pat at for her consideration.
Thanks, Ken & Pat

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This has become one of our favorite questions. The first time it happened, we were at a show in Giddings. We accidentally hung our sign upside down on the arena fence. Before we had the opportunity to rectify the situation, a couple of our customers told us the sign looked just fine the way it was. They seemed to think this display of our banner pretty much-suggested Ken’s true personality. Ever since that day we have made sure the VBF banner is in the crazy position. People now wonder if there is a problem if we don’t hang the banner this way. Whenever we are sitting in a chair and lean back to read the banner, it always looks correct to us. When new exhibitors, who have never met us, see our sign and ask “the question”, we have an opportunity to explain the situation. This is a great chance for us to have a conversation. It usually gives them a smile with the ridiculous explanation of the banner. We meet more new breeders and make new friends. We try to keep a listing of upcoming shows and rabbit show information on our table for anyone to pick up.
It is important to us that people see our banner and know that we are at the show. We have been vendors at the Texas State Show for several years. We still have people tell us at later shows that they didn’t see us at State. This is always disappointing to us. Our job is to supply our customers, who have ordered equipment, or new breeders with whatever is needed to help them display and raise their rabbits. We usually set up our tables near a building exit for convenience and so that we are not obstructing the show area or the exhibitors displays.
Do we know our sign is upside down? Yes, we do.

Thanks for noticing, see you at the shows. VBF




Vanecek Bunny Farm Show Schedule
below is a list of all shows that we will be set up as vendors

9/16/00 Washington Co RS Tracy Lehman
BRENHAM (409) 289-3416
9/30/00 Wichita Valley RBA Donnie Powers
DECATUR (940) 644-5136
9/23/00 Southwest RBA Debbie Hill
DOUBLE SHOW (817) 379-6223
Johnson Co RBA Bobbie Barker
KILLEEN (817) 246-9434
10/7/00 SARBA Diana Rumfield
(830) 217-4448

Guadalupe Co Ida Mae Schulz
(830) 379-4141

Vanecek Bunny Farm
Ken & Pat Vanecek
51 Sun Valley Drive
Spring Branch, TX 78070





at the



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We use Petrus Show Formula-15% protein rabbit pellets for our rabbits. There are several reasons why we prefer this feed. We have tried many other brands but have had the best results for the last three years with Petrus. There are some other good feed companies and high quality feeds offered all over the United States. The Petrus Company has shown us how a reputable business should be run.
First of all, the owner, Joel Petrus is always open to any suggestions, any problems or any questions about his product. There are very few companies that even know who is actually the owner of their business. Joel is a friendly, generous person who has donated many hours, money and awards to Open and Youth breeders. We have met several of his family members and his employees. They are all working together as one big family to insure their products are of the highest quality possible. Consistency and freshness of feeds are very important to our animals. Joel strives to keep his feeds at the highest level by searching the country for the finest grains and other ingredients for this feed mill.
The mill is located in Alexandria, Louisiana. It is about an eight-hour trip for his driver to deliver to our farm. They deliver to several southern states but in order for it to be worth his effort, he requires an order of at least eight tons of feed for any trip. We split a load, of fresh feed, every month with another breeder in south Texas. This again is a generous offering on Petrus’ part.
We can order any of his six different formulas of rabbit feed or any of the other feeds or grains that he mills. We generally buy only Show Formula (15% protein) and Breeder Formula (18% protein with calf manna added) for our use and our customers. We use approximately one ton a month for our herd and offer the rest to anyone who orders it or would like to try it for their rabbits. We order 50-pound bags but it does come in 25-pound bags.
Pat is not available to lift or move any heavy bags or objects. She has had shoulder surgery and cannot strain her arms. Ken will help load feed for anyone who wants to pick up feed. We do not deliver feed to any rabbit shows. We bring enough feed for our rabbits to eat and for anyone who purchases some of Pat’s rabbits.
We believe that whenever people buy a rabbit and plan on changing the brand of feed used, they should blend the two feeds for about a week. Ask the breeder you get your rabbit from about the feed they use on their bunnies.
                 Good luck, VBF
Petrus (800) 259-1801

Date: 7/9/2000 From: Donelle Bomben dbomben@*** 
Subject: Piperazine
Jackie, we raise Dwarfs and Hollands, and treat the kits when they are between 4 and 8 weeks. Most kits need just one treatment, but some will need a 2nd or third treatment about 2-3 weeks after the previous one. I use an eye dropper from the pharmacy. It took a bit of practice to judge where 2 and 4 drops were on the side of the dropper, but once I knew them I scored the plastic side so I'd know the next time. For the 16 oz Dwarfs we give 2-3 drops. For 2 lb Dwarfs we give 4-5 drops. I have always liked administering it directly into the mouth, as you really know they got it and how much. It is very bitter, but the rabbits don't seem to notice!               Donelle


Why would rabbits make good CBer’s?
Cause they’ve always
got their “ears on”.

What music do rabbits
like most?

Why are rabbits like trains?
Because they CHEW CHEW!

Vanecek Bunny Farm won 1999 Herdsman of the Year
for the National Holland Lop Rabbit Specialty Club


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Taken off Showbunny: Date: 4/9/2000 From: DEBRA L HOLDREN

Subject: rabbits off feed

There are several reason's a rabbit will go off feed. You need to watch and try to find out the reason, and get rid of the problem. I'm sure I won't be able to list them all, but I will list some of them.

1. LACK OF FRESH WATER a rabbit will NOT eat if it does not have a supply of water! Check and make sure your rabbit has a clean supply, and that the nipple's aren't clogged on water systems!

2. STALE FEED a rabbit is picky about their food. If it is old, or contaminated, they will refuse to eat it. Also, if you have changed their diet, they might resist the change.

3. TOO MANY TREATS if a Rabbit is given too many treats, they will not eat their regular food. To find out if this is the problem, you take them all away and see if they start eating again in 3 days or so.

4. BAD TEETH a rabbit cannot eat if they cannot get a hold of the food and get it in! If the rabbit has overgrown teeth, just use a pair of needle nose wire cutters and carefully trim them, or take them to a vet to do this.

5. HAIRBALLS a rabbit will not eat if they have hairballs. Treat with either an over the counter remedy, or with Adolph's Meat Tenderizer(1/2 teaspoon) mixed with a favorite treat(I use pumpkin), or use any other "good" home remedy, until you notice them pass the mass with the furball in it.

6. ILLNESS if you rabbit is sick, they will sometimes go off their feed. I would rule out the other 5 first, then take the rabbit to a vet to find out what is going on.

Remember that a rabbit cannot feed or water themselves! They need you, their caretaker, to provide for them and their needs. It is up to you, the breeder/owner, to make sure they are getting the right food in the proper amounts. That is one reason I personally believe in the measuring out feed method. If you just top of the dishes every day, you have no way of knowing how much food each rabbit actually ate. Even my silver fox, which are on full feed, are given it in a measure, so that I will know if one is not eating as they should be.

Good luck with the chocolate bunny that is not eating! Deb of English Spot Haven/Silver Fox Run

The Way I Want Holland's Judged by Pat Vanecek

Step 1: Take the rabbit gently out of the coop. Lift the rabbit from underneath and do not drag it pulling toenails as you go or pull it out by the ears.

Step 2: Check for disqualifications. Turn the rabbit over. Check the teeth, toenails, sex and for navel abscesses. At this time you can view the feet, legs and bone on the rabbit (10 points). Remember: short, thick, straight, and heavily boned. Gently hold the rabbit up and check for eye spots. Set the rabbit back on the table and check for ear mites.

Step 3: Pose the rabbit. Lift the hindquarter and set it back on the table, making sure the tail is exposed. Put one hand under the chin and lift the front of the rabbit while keeping one hand on the back of the rabbit and sliding it down to the bottom of the rump. Make sure the rear feet are sitting straight under the body. While keeping a hand on the chin, run your hand over the body to judge the width of shoulder, loin and hindquarter (body: 32 points). You are looking for Short & Massive. Release the rabbit. If it doesn’t stay in the set position, gently repose. If the rabbit will not pose up here, take a look at the head, ears and crown now. Let the animal relax and then try to pose them up again. Gentle and slow are the key words.

Step 5: View the rabbit. Remember head is 24 points. The Holland Lop head should be round from all views and proportionate to the body. The head should be massive in appearance and be set high on the shoulder. It should also have good width between the eyes and throughout. Next, look at the crown (8 points). This defines how the ears hang. If the crown is wide from front to back and side to side the ears will lay open and down. Also, judge placement of the crown. The crown should be set high on the head

so the ears fall just behind the eyes. At the same time you will be judging the ears (10 points). The ears should be thick, well furred and only extend just past the jaw line. (I won’t get into my opinion here, which is that more points should be put on the crown then the ears since the standard describes so much of the crown purpose in the ears. Lets just say Crown and Ears is 18 points.) Making the total points for head, ear and crown 42 points vs body 32 points. Remember to step back and view the animal in a relaxed state.

Step 6: Run your hand over the body and roll back the fur. The fur (7 points) should be short (aprx 1 inch), glossy and dense. You can check the color and markings (4 points) at this time.

Step 7: Last but not least—condition (5 points). My humble interpretation of the ARBA standard for condition is that the animal looks healthy and feels firm.

Now if I can just get the judges to read this! Pat

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What Do You Do For Flies
by Ken Vanecek

The old reliable fly swatter is probably one of the most popular methods of eliminating these pesky insects. We’ve even seen clever little guns that propel a web-type disk at flies to squash them on ceilings or hard to reach places. There will never be a time when all flies will be eliminated from our planet. Thankfully there are many intelligent chemists and scientists that find some relief from flies and all the problems they can cause.

Flies are strong, fast, hardy little insects that can multiply quickly in many types of decaying matter. Anything from rotting leaves to rabbit manure is a wonderful nursery for fly larvae. Keeping the adults from laying eggs in these areas will help keep the population at a minimum. Many people use worms in their compost heaps to help control the hatching of unwanted eggs. Using chemicals such as lime or sulphur can also deter flies from laying their eggs. Common household items, such as soap, can control some problem areas. Eliminating all places that would be potential fly hatcheries is an important first step.

We have introduced parasitic wasps into our barn areas with the theory that these little fly eaters would destroy the eggs and larvae before they become flies. We have heard several people say how effective this method is for their situation. (It didn’t work well for us however.)

Chemicals such as Marlate and Golden Marlin, used by many people with horses, seem to keep many flies out of the barn areas. It is nearly odorless but should not be near any rabbits or other animals.

Fly strips (sticky strings, made with some kind of fly bait added) can catch a lot of flies. They are ugly and a little messy whenever collection time arrives. The tapes are usually covered with flies that are stuck to the paper. Flytraps look similar to many small insect or minnow traps. There is a central place to keep the bait and a funnel shaped area leading to the bait. Small wire or netting is used to keep the bugs from escaping. They can collect hundreds of flies in a short time. You still have to kill or destroy the live flies in the trap. There are several methods of disposal.

Using a battery or electronic dispenser is one of the newest and most effective methods for positive fly control. The machines cost about $33 per unit. You install a spray canister of fly spray, which lasts about 30 days and cost $7.50. The pyrethrums they use to keep flies out of barn areas do not harm any animals or plants.

Flies can carry many diseases and problems for ranchers and farmers. Keeping their population at a minimum and insuring your animals are safe is a challenge for all of us. We have tried the methods mentioned in this letter and will try to help anyone with their fly problems.             VBF

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This statement is loaded with a thousand questions. Where do I start?

1. What breed of rabbit do you have?
2. Is it a buck or a doe?
3. Which type of wire do you want to use?
4. Is the cage for indoors or outdoors?
5. Do you want a kit or already assembled?

The answer we usually receive with these basic questions is, “ I really don’t know.” We try to offer our customers every possible option available so your rabbit will have the ideal cage. We are continually adding new and improved items to our price list. As most veteran breeders know, using the correct size and best materials is very important for a successful Rabbitry. We know some people just want a simple cage to keep their rabbit safe. All types of rabbits, pets, show & commercial rabbits are a concern of our business, so we try to keep all kinds of building materials and tools available for purchase.
The breed, size of the rabbit and location of the cage determine cage sizes. Rabbit weights can range from 2 to 25 pounds. Cage sizes generally run from 18”x18” to 30”x36”.
Bucks can live fine in a cage with 1”x2” wire sides. Does, which may be used for breeding, would be better off in a cage with babysaver wire on the sides. Saving one baby makes this cage worth the cost.
We have galvanized-before and galvanized-after (or double dipped) wire available. We also have PVC coated wire.
We can make cages that use pans. The pans can slide under or the cage sets down into the pan.
We have cages with a roof and legs for outdoors.
Any of the cages can be constructed from any type material offered.
We have many sizes of kits available. We have many sizes of plastic pans available. We will build any size or kind of cage to suit you and your rabbit’s needs.
Building your own cages takes a few special tools to help simplify the task. We offer two brands of hand flush wire cutters plus electric shears. We have two types of fasteners--J-clips and C-rings. We have a tool that removes the j-clips or c-rings. We offer heavy duty, lightweight and stainless steel j-clips. We offer galvanized or stainless steel c-rings. We use the stainless steel c-rings on the cages in our barns. We also use and prefer the double galvanized wire with babysaver for our cages. We have realized that if the cages take less of our time and concern, then we can devote more time to our business and bunnies. Good luck, Ken Vanecek

Usually only what is ordered from a customer!

We are happy and willing to deliver any size wire you may need to a show. We have limited space and weight capacity in our van. We try to bring a variety of items that we feel everyone may need. Larger, heavier items are only loaded in the van if they were ordered and requested delivery to the show. We have 19 different types and sizes of wire on our price list. We offer FREE delivery to shows to help save our customers the shipping costs.
We generally set up and are ready to sell our items about 7 a.m. on the show dates. Because we usually have a long trip home, we try to start packing the van at 2 p.m. We will hold any item ordered until 2 p.m. on that day. Whenever someone does not show up to get their order, we will try to sell it to someone else who wants it. We do know a lot of you but new people are difficult to find. We cannot leave our table area looking for the customers who have ordered something. We bring special items to shows as a service to our customers. Please, if you ask to have something delivered, pick it up before 2 p.m. the day of the show.                   Thanks, VBF

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Taken off the Web
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000
From: "Deb Goldben"
Subject:: Wry neck
We have had very good success with the following natural remedy.
Get some garlic oil (we get ours at the health food store as we use it for ear infections). Fill a dropper bottle (1 oz size) about half full of the garlic oil and then at about 5 drops of VetRx. Put 2 drops of this mixture in each ear 2 times a day (shake well before using and warm a little bit -- not HOT). Massage the down into the ear canal. Continue for 2-3 weeks after head returns to normal

The essential oils in VetRx are the same as those used for ear infections and will be absorbed by the ear tissue and go to the location of the infection.

We also put echinacea/goldenseal drops in the water of the rabbit during treatment as this boosts the immune system.

We have never treated a rabbit allopathically (ie with Baytril, antibiotics, etc) for anything. Several friends have used the above remedy for wryneck and all have had a 100% recovery.

It's my understanding that wry neck, itself, isn't contagious. It is listed in the ARBA Guidebook as a non-infectious condition.

Deb Goldben
With God all things are possible. Matthew 19:26


Date: Wed, 3 May 2000
From: joe
Subject: Fungus Infection

Could your fungus infection be ringworm? If so try rubbing alcohol applied with a q-tip three times a day.

Garlic rubbed on ringworm also works well.

More on WRY NECK

Dr. Wendy Feaga wrote an article in Nov-Dec DR. I quote the treatment she gives: "Currently, I am using injectable prednisolone at a dose of five mg per pound which is repeated 48 hours later. This drug was chosen because of its rapid clearance from the body, and therefore minimal long term depression of the immune system. I do not know if lower doses would be as effective. Cortisone also has the valuable side effect of increased appetite, which is helpful in affected rabbits which may be reluctant to eat.

"In conclusion, wry neck appears to be due to inflammation of the brain in 90% of the cases examined. Encephalitozoon Cuniculi (E Cuniculi) appears to be responsible for a majority of these cases, if not nearly all of them. However, by the time wry neck occurs, the parasite has been cleared by the rabbit's immune system. Since the organism is gone by the time symptoms are seen, there is no justification for antibiotics in the treatment of wry neck."

Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 From: "Deborah McNeil" <>
Subject: Lemon Mint and Lemon Balm
Lemon Mint - member of mint family while Lemon Balm/Balm/Bee Balm is Melissa officinalis. Different family and different herbal properties.
LEMON MINT has mint properties: used for colds, eye inflammations, liver stimulant and to relax the muscles of the digestive system. Can stimulate the bile flow so useful for indigestion, colic etc.
Do not give to young babies and do not use constantly as can irritate mucous membranes so feed for short time only and small amounts. Do not use when flowering. Can be used to dry up the milk of does during weaning or with mastitis.
LEMON BALM: good for nervousness and when rabbit is of a nervous disposition - for calming. Helps prepare rabbits for traveling if fed a few days before. Good to give to does before mating - good for uterine disorders and help prevent miscarriage. Good for cleaning out retained afterbirth and for milk production. Safe to feed several handfuls at a time.
This is from the list I have just updated for a rabbit club seminar. Regards Deborah

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Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 From: "Deborah McNeil" <>
Subject: Spring herbs reply

Dear Suzi, Sorry I took so long to reply - have been offline for while. This Love Bug virus had me worried. I know of Pam Alley from other lists - she is very good. I have just done a seminar on rabbit medical and food herbs so have a list to follow now - so here goes --- Now regarding the below:
"What spring herbs can I give that will help boost these babies' immune systems? I have lemon balm, mint, dandelions, apple tree leaves, feverfew, yarrow, chives and onions that are up and going. Can also get yams and parsley."
Feed general tonic - lemon balm, yarrow, onions, parsley. Yarrow is full of vitamins and minerals as is parsley. Just don't give too much at a time to young stock. Specific for immune system would be Echinacea (bought at health shops). Garlic works as an antibiotic for humans but I do not know if you could get rabbits to eat it.
I know nothing about yams but keep the apple tree leaves down as there is debate over the safety of these. I really don't know what to think about these debates. Try borage if you can get them to eat it. It is a common weed here. Comfrey is another of these debated plants but if used in small amounts, it is recommended for sickly or stressed bunnies from the lists I read.
Dandelion is a good tonic for adults BUT not for young bunnies as can overstress their kidneys. Wait until they are older.
|Feverfew is a laxative and good for swellings but not to be used on pregnant does and can cause miscarriages. I find my rabbits are reluctant to eat it. I have tried it and it burnt my tongue.
See posting on mint and lemon balm I posted earlier for mint properties - don't use for your lot at this point. This is a bit long but hopefully helpful. Deborah

Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 From:
Subject: Babies with enterotoxemia!

Christine, I use homeopathic *e-coli* and *salmonella* if I even so much as suspect the possibility of a bacterial outbreak. We give these remedies preventively to our new born goat kids, and have used them w/ rabbits as well. Using homeopathic remedies is easier than using herbs when the animal in question is still a suckling, as one dose is just one or 2 drops of the remedy.
Still, my daughter's favorite remedy for this type of problem is the *Dr Goodpet* brand of "Diar-relief" which is a liquid combo homeopathic just for animals. We usually use this in the water for a day or 2, and give non- alfalfa hay sprinkled w/ slippery elm powder, or if the rabbit is cooperative, it might take a Thayers slippery elm tablet to nibble. If more than one rabbit has it, I give them each a dose of the e-coli and salmonella as well.
We usually feed some yogurt or sprinkle some acidophilus/ bifidus powder on the food as they begin to get better, just to make sure the intestinal flora does not suffer long term harm from the illness.
The individual homeopathic are available from Dolisos 1-800-365-4767 in Las Vegas. Buy the 20% alcohol liquids for use w/ animals. Be very careful not to touch the dropper to anything before you return it to the bottle. If you suspect you can not dose it w/o contaminating the dropper, put a little of the remedy into a small cup, and use a different dropper. Don't return the unused remedy to the bottle.
Dr Goodpet products are often sold at pet stores or through e-commerce sites. We love their "Calmstress" also, and use it faithfully during any times of stress for the animal.
I hope all goes well w/ your bunnies, Tina in TX

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I can remember eating pickles right out of a large barrel my Grandma used to keep in her kitchen. It was summertime and I was out of school. I learned how to feed many kinds of farm animals, collected chicken eggs and picked vegetables out of her garden. The cucumber plants were always huge and covered with what I used to call baby pickles.

Once I took a bite of one of these little cucumbers, but it tasted nothing like the ones I took out of the barrel. I asked Grandma why there was such a difference in taste. She explained to me about the process of changing cucumbers into pickles. This is done by adding a few ingredients to the cucumbers and some water. She grew dill weed and garlic. We bought salt and vinegar at the General Store.

Grandma said that the recipe for these pickles was brought over by her Mom from the old country (Czechoslovakia). I never did write down any direction but I have experimented for a few years with my garden cucumbers.

Here’s the recipe for Vanecek Bunny Farm Pickles.

Glass gallon jar full of clean washed cucumbers (20 to 30 depending on their size)
4 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon dill
1 teaspoon mustard seed
½ cup vinegar
4 cloves garlic
2 small peppers

The mustard seed and peppers are my own addition and are not necessary. Mix all the ingredients and add water to the jar until the pickles are covered and it is full. Cover and put the jar into a refrigerator for about 7 to 10 days.

The pickles should be cool and crisp, a perfect treat for a hot summer afternoon. I think you use more calories eating a pickle than the amount of calories a pickle may contain. The salt may be a problem for some, so you can cut back on that ingredient.

If you stop by the house someday and ask for a bite, I just might give you one. If you would like a bite of pickle, let me know. KV


I raise Holland Lops in blue tort, tort, black, blue, siamese sable, sable point, smoke pearl, fawn, lynx, these colors in broken, and blue eyed whites.
If you are interested in purchasing a rabbit just let me know what color and sex you are want. Then I can let you know what is available.
Below is a list of some that are currently available. Prices range from $50 to $150.

date born sex color
3-27-00 B blue eyed white
5-31-00 B blue eyed white
6-19-00 B&D blue eyed white
6-28-00 litter of 6 blue eyed white
3-24-00 D black
4-30-00 D broken black
4-6-00 D broken fawn
2-22-99 B broken tort
5-10-00 B broken tort
3-24-00 D broken tort
2-21-00 D tort
5-10-00 D tort
5-3-00 D blue tort
6-15-00 B&D smoke pearl
6-15-00 B siamese sable


I am the red & white Australian Shepard who protects Vanecek Bunny Farm from dangerous animals. My people have given me the duty of patrolling the VBF barns and property whenever they are gone or asleep. They try to keep their gate closed and the alarm on during those times, but occasionally a rogue dog or wild animal will stray onto our property threatening the rabbits. My job is to insure that nothing is allowed to stay around that could bother the barns.

I am not allowed to travel with my people to any of the rabbit shows they attend. They tell me that dogs and other animals can cause some show rabbits a lot of stress and may even cause death. I would not like to see any of our rabbits or any other show rabbits under any duress because of the fear caused by a strange animal. I am a good dog and would not intentionally want to scare any show animals. My people have said that some rabbits can sense the presence of predators. This fear is a natural, inbred trait that smaller animals possess.

I have also heard my people speak of some of the many diseases and parasites other animals may pass off to show rabbits. Birds, cats, dogs and other farm or wild animals can carry dangerous problems for rabbits. My people try to isolate their valuable show and breeding stock from any dangerous situations.

My people do not allow humans to smoke in or near any of our barns. I know how terrible smoke makes me feel. Most animals fear the sight or smell of any burning material. Our only defense is to run. But when caged, what would you do?

My hope is that all National, State and Local Rabbit Clubs establish and enforce rules. Rules that would keep foreign animals out and dangerous substances away form rabbit shows. I am sure my people and their bunnies would appreciate this simple rule.

I would like to hear that all rabbits taken to shows are kept safe and comfortable.

VBF Guard Dog, Corey



offer good thru 9-30-00


1 compartment carrier reg $16

10”x16” with 3” deep Polytray

sale price $12.00

We now have the largest selection of Rabbit jewelry in the US.

We offer costume jewelry, sterling silver and 14K gold.

Below are a few examples.

If you would like a complete jewelry price list, just let us know.

Austrian Crystal Bunny Head $20
Pewter Bunny w/Watercan $12

Sterling Silver Kissing Bunnies Charm $5
Sterling Silver Laughing Bunny Charm $5

Sterling Silver w/rose quartz

bunny pendant $23

14K solid gold

kissing bunnies $23