INSIDE THIS ISSUE
click on page number to take you to article
Polytray Drop Pans & Sliders
VBF Show Schedule
Letters to Corey
How do you build a rabbit hutch?
What is double dipped wire?
I need a waterbottle
I need to tattoo my rabbit
Reasons why English is hard to learn
Hints from around the world
VBF bunnies FOR SALE
I need a nestbox
Jewelry & Stained Glass Stepping Stones
Well the show season here in Texas is in full swing. We are vendors at a show every weekend. Except for the ARBA convention. I will be attending the convention and showing rabbits but we won’t be set up as vendors. We will be vendors next year at the ARBA convention in San Diego, California. Let us know if you will be attending a show and need anything (except feed), we’ll be happy to deliver it to the show for you. I’d like to give a big thank you to all the people who put on the shows. It takes a lot of people and man-hours to put on the shows. If you ever have a chance, please offer to help behind the tables. They will usually be grateful to have someone to call up rabbits or take comments.
My bunnies are producing like crazy. I’m just starting to get some new prospects for the Holland Lop National show. It is going to be held on March 24 & 25 in Tucson, Arizona. With Hollands, you need to hold onto them till their about 4 months old before you can be sure if they are show stoppers. So my cages are going to be overflowing.
I hope all of you and your bunnies survived the terrible heat we had in September. It was 110 here and it has never been that hot here before. I kept the misters on all day and luckily did not lose anything. Most of our rabbits are in barns and we had the misters on the roof as well as the evaporative coolers running nonstop.
I am working hard at making sure we have the largest selection of rabbit jewelry in the country. If you would like to see it all, either stop by our table at a show, check out our website or ask me and I’ll mail you a jewelry catalog.
Keep those nestboxes full and good luck getting a boxful of BOB’s (or BOBBETTE’s). Pat
*New at VBF*
We now have
Sunday 9 am till 3 pm
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday & Friday
8 am till 4 pm
Most Saturday’s we’ll see you
at the rabbit shows
We would again like to thank
all the people who have contributed to our newsletter. If
you have an article or subject that you think would be of interest to
the rest of our customers, please submit it to Pat at email@example.com
for her consideration.
2 compt carrrier w/18x18x3 Polytray
POLYTRAY DROP PANS & SLIDERS
These new plastic trays are one of the best products we have ever found to help rabbit breeders collect animal droppings (manure). The pans are molded inside a measured frame and heated to fit certain sizes. In order to justify building one of these molds, the manufacturer requires a minimum order of 1000 pans for special requested sizes. We have 11 different size pans posted on our price list at this time. New sizes may be offered in the future depending on customer interest and manufacturing capabilities.
The Polytray pans weigh much less than conventional metal trays. This fact helps exhibitors with carriers save some of the energy for more important tasks. When pans are kept under slider cages or drop cages, the lighter weight can make the job of cleaning a little easier.
The plastic is strong, flexible and durable but not indestructible. Sharp objects, like knives and screwdrivers can puncture or damage the pans. There are no real sharp edges on Polytray that might damage materials like auto upholstery. Many exhibitors set their carriers on their car seats when traveling.
The Polytray is formed of one solid piece so there is no leakage. The taller 3” pans can allow for a deeper collection area or a taller wall around the holding area. The slider pans are a bit shorter and smaller to enable them to fit into a 2” high slot under the cage. They are narrower in order to fit between the cage walls. The sliders work very well with the stack cage system.
We offer this pan for several good reasons. Let us know what you need. VBF
Farm Show Schedule
SARBA Diana Rumfield
DOUBLE SHOW (830) 217-4448
Guadalupe Co Ida Mae Schulz
SEGUIN, TX (830) 379-4141
Texas State 4H Show Maureen Dunckel
KILLEEN, TX (830) 606-0572
Garvin Co RBC Sheila Caldwell
PAUL VALLEY, OK (405) 238-9197
Stephens Co RBA CJ Carroll
DUNCAN, OK firstname.lastname@example.org
Rabbit Club of N TX Betty
DOUBLE SHOW (972) 414-5773
MC KINNEY, TX (972) 771-3646
TRBA Fall Classic Danny Messer
KILLEEN, TX (806) 353-6247
Brazos Area RBA CeCe Wall
NEEDVILLE, TX (281) 261-0037
Tex RBA Don Mersiovsky
KILLEEN, TX (254) 939-0345
Letters to Corey!
We enjoyed reading your comments in the VBF News, Volume 1, Issue 3. We agree wholeheartedly with your views on controlling dangerous problems for show rabbits. Some exhibitors bring their pets with them to shows. Most are leashed, but as you said, the threat and fear is still there.
James & Maura Billeaux
Thanks for opening the discussion about smoking around show animals. We agree with your simple rules for keeping rabbits safe. Most show barns are usually insulated due to cold temperatures. Ventilation can be a problem at some shows. Keep up the good work.
I had no idea you possessed such a large vocabulary. I have met you on several occasions, but never expected to hear so much knowledge come from one dog. I hope to read some more commentary from your great newsletter.
San Antonio, Texas
Due to the terrific response from our readers, we will keep a section in the VBF News titled “Ask Corey Anything!”. Hopefully he will be able to shed a little light on those really tough questions that most of us do not know how to answer. You can write to Corey c/o Vanecek Bunny Farm, 51 Sun Valley Drive, Spring Branch, TX 78070. Or email him at email@example.com. He will be glad to try to help.
Bunny T-shirt Designs
TOP 10 QUESTIONS
THAT WE HAVE NO ANSWER FOR!
BVAHPA HUERL TPVAM
MNZ TULR LNGD NB
A equals R
(answer on page 7)
HOW DO YOU BUILD A RABBIT HUTCH?
Actually, you are building a mini-barn whenever constructing an outside hutch. Many factors such as size & weight of the rabbit, location and type of building materials should be considered before starting the project. Using some well-designed plans and visiting a farm to see what is working for another breeder may help answer a lot of your important questions.
If the hutch is over sized, this may be the first problem. Too tall and you can’t reach the rabbit and can’t catch the rabbit. These are factors that require some thought. The type of building materials such as lumber, tin, wire and plywood are important cost and weight considerations. The location of the hutch is a decision, which needs to be thought out in advance so that weather, shade, obstructing a path or view and easy accessibility are all planned ahead of time.
A 24”x30”x18” high cage would be sufficient for most average size rabbits. This size will keep them comfortable. Use good, strong galvanized welded wire to help keep the rabbit in and predators out. The legs and framing should be made from strong materials to keep the cage up and all the parts together. Galvanized metal studs work well because of strength plus not rotting and not getting eaten by the rabbit like wood. The roof should be weatherproof: either shingles or metal. Plywood won’t last very long if left uncovered and shingles can be very heavy on large roofs. The overall size and weight of the hutch determines how easily it can be moved.
Start building from the inside. Put the wire cage together, leaving the top off. Then attach the legs and supports. Keep the cage height at a level comfortable for the handler. Now attach the top of the cage. Add on upper framing and the roof.
When using wood for legs and supports, be careful so that the rabbit can’t eat the wood. You can cover the wood with small wire. Also, many paints or varnishes may cause rabbits to become ill.
Ask questions, read books, visit rabbit breeders and experiment as much as possible before starting your hutch.
Then good luck, from VBF
DO YOU HAVE A CARRIER?
We have 9 types and sizes of carriers on our price list. We can construct special order carriers upon request. We are limited because the Polytray pans only come in specific sizes. The most popular sizes range from one compartment to four compartment. We also offer 2” and 3” deep Polytray pans. These attach to the carriers by two small latches and springs. Most carriers have ½”x1” bottom wire and 1”x2” side wire. Tops are constructed of galvanized or PVC coated wire. The section dividers can be sheet metal, ½”x1” wire or ½”x½ ” wire. The three compartment 18”x24” carriers are great for larger breeds such as New Zealand or Californians. The four compartment 18”x24” carriers are best for smaller breeds such as Holland Lops or Netherland Dwarf. Each compartment measures 9” by 12”. We are always open to new suggestions and good ideas. Let us know what we can do to keep your rabbits safer and happier. The vehicle you use to transport show animals is an important first step when planning your trips to shows. Good luck, VBF
This is a 3 compartment carrier with a 3”x16”x24” Polytray
What is Double Dipped Wire?
Coating iron or steel with a thin layer of zinc is called galvanizing. Spraying, dipping or electro-galvanizing are all methods of applying this coating. Keeping corrosion and rust at a minimum is the main reason for galvanizing.
The first step in producing cage wire is to size or gauge strands of steel. It is then galvanized and welded into certain patterns. ½”x ½”, ½”x1”, 1”x1” and 1”x2” are popular sizes used by animal enthusiasts. The wire sizes are usually 14 or 16 gauge. At all points where two wires cross, high temperature welding can cause charring. It is easy to notice the darkened areas with close inspection of the wires. These connections can accumulate dirt and foreign particles. The welding and connections may cause quicker deterioration in these areas. When galvanized, welded wire is sent back through the zinc vats, it becomes double-dipped wire. All welded connections are filled and recoated with zinc to insure the corrosion process will be inhibited for a longer time. The galvanized-after wire is shinier and the tensile is a little less. Tensile means the tension of the wire. The second coating of zinc also gives the wire a smoother finish. This fact helps a lot of animals rest easier on their cage floors.
Of course, this extra dipping process is going to make the cost of the wire go up. Making it last so much longer before rusting makes it a bargain. Whenever replacement or repairs are necessary, a lot of time and effort is expended. The same amount of time that it takes to build a cage will be spent on repairing a cage. The corrosion or rust that can accumulate on regular coated wire, may cause health problems in the animal and cause the fur to be stained.
When building a cage with GAW (galvanized after weld wire), it’s important to use long lasting stainless steel j-clips or c-rings. If the clips start corroding at an early rate, it can cause a premature deterioration of the wire cage. Once the corrosion process has begun, it is difficult to control.
When cleaning a wire cage by using a torch, be careful to not apply too much heat to any area for very long. Apply just enough to singe hay and fur, not to harm the zinc coating. Any galvanized wire can start corroding quickly if too much heat is applied to the surface.
Rabbit urine has a very high acidity. It’s almost as strong as the most toxic acids. Acid is zinc’s biggest enemy. Cleaning the cages at least three or four times a year, will prolong the life of the cage. Using a wire brush and water will clean most problem areas. Cage floors are the most susceptible places for acid attacks.
offer good thru 12-31-00
offer good thru 12-31-00
|I Need A Water Bottle!
What’s in a bottle? Anywhere from 4 ounces to 64 ounces of good clean water! We carry several brands and sizes of dependable water bottles. Water systems, which supply a consistent flow to each hole in your barn, are also available. Our crocks, cups and bowls can do the job for you and your rabbits needs.
The hang on water bottles come in many sizes that can fit cages and carriers. Sta-Pur bottles are available in 8 oz, 16 oz & 32 oz. capacities. The Lixit brand is similar but has a wide mouth opening plus a 45-degree angle on the spout. Lixit come in 8 oz, 16 oz, 32 oz & 64 oz sizes. We carry tube and cap replacements for both of these brands of bottles as well as the Bass waterbottle.
Topfill bottles are very popular because of easier filling without having to remove the bottles from their cages. The screw type lids are simple and the bottle is easily attached to cages or carriers. We have Nivek round topfill bottles in 4 oz, 16 oz and 32 oz. We have Morton Jones topfill bottles in 8 oz (square) and 32 oz (round).
Some rabbits will only drink out of bowls. We offer bowls and cups in metal, plastic and crockery. The metal cups come in 8 oz, quart and 12 oz lock-on. Plastic hook on cups are in 6 oz and 16 oz sizes. Smart crocks are available in 8 oz, 16 oz and 24 oz sizes. They are constructed of heavy-duty plastic with a screw-on cap to hold the cup on the cage or carrier. The EZ crock, heavy weight plastic crocks come in 5 oz, 10 oz and 20 oz sizes. These cups use a flat-clip-slide for attaching to wire carriers or cages. Crock-loc sizes are 10 oz and 20 oz and use a plate with a screw nut to secure it to the cage. These are also heavy weight plastic. Stone crockery is a heavier kiln-fired bowl with 3 in, 4 in, 5 in and 7 in diameters offered. The depth of these bowls varies from approximately 1 ½” to 3”. The plastic crocks come in the same sizes. They cost a little less and are light weight. Neither of these type bowls attaches to cages but the crockery is harder for your bunnies to turn over. We carry easy fillers, which attach to your garden hose, to fill bowls in cages.
We carry and use the Edstrom water system in our barns. We tell people all the time, that we would no be raising rabbits if it weren’t for this wonderful invention. It works on simple gravity or low-pressure techniques. Some use a good large bucket for the reservoir (we use 5 gallon plastic buckets) with a valve installed near the bottom edge and an intake float (for keeping the bucket full). Using a pressure regulator and filter costs a little more but is just as effective. The supply lines to the cages can be either ½ “ PVC or 3/16” flex tubing. It is important to supply all the water needed to any cage. Does with a large litter of kits can drink a lot of water, especially during the summer. We have 200 cages supplied with all the water they need. We do not have time to fill bottles or bowls. It is easy to check water valves on cages by simply touching the valve. If rabbits can’t get to water, they will not eat.
We’ve described all the different ways you can water your rabbits. You have
do decide which method will work best for you. Good luck, VBF
If you would like to pick up something at a show, just
give us a call or email us and let us know. We will be happy to deliver
anything to a show for you. (except feed).
|Vanecek Bunny Farm
4 ounce Nivek
16 ounce Lixit
I Need To Tattoo My Rabbit
Grand Champion Kit w/ case
$32.00 Includes:Tongs, 0-9, case & ink
We carry three sizes of tattoo kits, 5/16”, 3/10” & 1/4". Stone, Weston and Bass all have good products to help rabbit exhibitors tattoo their rabbits. The size tattoo kit you use should be determined by the size of rabbits you raise. All basic kits have the pliers (tool), ink and numbers 0-9. We sell numbers and letters individually for anyone of the kits. Or they can be purchased in entire sets of 0-9 and A-Z. We also have small or large tattoo wraps for restraining the rabbit during the procedure.
The Stone kits come in #300 (3/10”) and 5/16” sizes. The #300 can be used on smaller animals since the tool is not as large. The #300 comes with a 4-digit or 6-digit tool, they will hold up to 4 or 6 digits. For larger breeds, such as Californian or New Zealand, the 5/16” set can be used. The 5/16” is also equipped with an ear release. This is a spring release to help retract the needles after tattooing.
The tools are constructed of heavy metal. The digits have metal needles with plastic backs.
The Weston 1/4" set is used mainly on the very small breeds. The needles are smaller and shorter than the other sets offered. They have metal needles with black plastic backs. The tool can hold up to 5 digits.
The Bass Grand Champion 1/4" is our favorite kit. It can be used on just about any size rabbit. The needles are longer than the Weston kit. They are also metal needles but with gray plastic backs. This tool holds up to 5 digits.
There are several methods to restrain and tattoo rabbits. Try to keep the rabbit as calm as possible to avoid harm. Keep it secure and make sure you choose the correct ear for tattooing (this is the rabbits left ear). Clean it’s ear of any foreign matter or dirt. Make sure the needles are clean (with a little rubbing alcohol) and in the correct position in the tool. Testing the pattern on a piece of paper will help. If it is your first time to tattoo, it would be best to try it on a non-show rabbit first. Many good rabbits have been mismarked or injured by first timers. After the needles have pierced the skin of the ear, brush the tattoo ink deep into the holes. Shake your ink well before opening it. Be sure all the holes are full of color. Clean the excess ink off with a tissue or cotton. A little Vaseline helps to remove ink residue. Don’t forget to check the outside of the ear for ink. It can be cleaned off with a little Vaseline or a baby wipe.
Put the rabbit in a safe area then clean the tool and letters. Check the ears the next day and watch for any infection. Many people use a tattoo touch-up tool in case some of the holes do not appear clear. Judges can disqualify rabbits being shown if their ear tattoo is not legible.
Let us know what we can do to help you make this task a little easier.
|New T-shirt Design
A BOASTFUL RABBIT
FARMER MIGHT WEARY YOU WITH TONS OF
|Taken off the Web
|Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 From: "Micki
Subject: Fleas Herbal Insect Repellent
This pleasantly scented liquid is designed to repel mosquitoes, flies, fleas and ticks. Experiment with the essential oils it contains to determine the most effective formula against the most bothersome insects in your area, or adjust the amounts to let a particular favorite scent emerge in the finished product. This is safe for use on skin or clothing. Use a small amount on exposed skin, dab it on clothing or carry it along with you in convenient pocket-sized plastic bottles on outdoor trips. For external use only.
2 1/2 teaspoons total of the following essential oils, in equal parts or in any combination: basil, juniper, palmarosa, citronella, rose geranium, rosemary, myrrh, cedarwood, pine and lemon
1 cup 190-proof grain alcohol, available in liquor stores
Stir the oils into the grain alcohol. Pour the solution into small bottles with tight-fitting caps.
Note: To make more or less of the insect repellent, use a quantity of essential oil equal to 5 percent of the volume of the finished product.
The oils of lemon and pine are included in the recipe in hopes that they'll keep fleas from mistaking me for a dog. For use in flea pillows and bedding for your pets, I recommend the dried leaves of pennyroyal, flea-bane and California laurel, mixed together with these two oils.
Lemon oil is rich in the lemon-scented limonene. Limonene is documented as lethal to the cat flea and is sometimes marketed as a "natural" dip. While lemon and other citrus oils are indeed natural, toxic reactions and even deaths have been reported in dipped cats. Most self-respecting cats do not wear clothing, so soak bedding and pillows with lemon oil as a safer alternative to dipping.
Pennyroyal, a creeping perennial mint, is the herb best known for flea repellency. The first-century Roman scholar Pliny noticed its effectiveness against fleas, as did the eighteenth-century Swedish botanist Linnaeus, who named the plant Mentha pulegium, from the Latin word for flea, pulex. Native American Indians rubbed leaves of American pennyroyal (Hedeoma pulegioides) onto their skin as protection from insects. I find no good scientific studies on the repellency of pennyroyal or its primary constituent, pulegone, yet the anecdotal evidence is so rich that I feel they should be explored.
A word of caution about the use of pennyroyal: at least one woman has died from ingesting an ounce of pennyroyal oil, and rats have displayed brain degeneration after being dosed with it. So don't drink pennyroyal tea or oil or even apply it to your skin or your pets. Pennyroyal pillows to tuck into your dog's or cat's bed have produced no reported problems, however, and may actually work.
Another plant widely recognised as a flea repellent is fleabane (Conyza canadensis). Mrs. M. Grieve, in A Modern Herbal, states that if fleabane is burned, its smoke will drive off fleas and other insects. Culpeper says, "The smell is supposed delightful to insects and the juice destructive to them." Gerard, in his Herball, has another idea on how this plant got it's name: "I thinke it is rather because the seed doth resemble a flea so much, that it is hard to discern the one from the other." Chemical studies of the essential oils of fleabane have been published, but I know none that address its insect repellency.
The Indians of Mendocino County, California, historically used California laurel (Umbellularia californica) to repel fleas. The leaves of Boenninghausenia albiflora, a perennial herb of temperate India, have a disagreeable odor and a long reputation as an effective repellent of fleas; Indian scientists who tested the oil against the dog flea report that it works well. Another plant that may be repellent to fleas is vitex (Vitex negundo).
From: The Herb Companion, June/July 1994, Herbs vs. Bugs: Scents can discourage flies, fleas and other bothersome insects, by Arthur O. Tucker, pages 46-47.
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 22:05:31 -0700 From: "Micki
Subject: From Herb Companion Magazine
Angelica: In Asia, dang-gui has long been revered for it’s ability to regulate menstruation, relieve blood-related problems surrounding childbirth, and alleviate constipation. Today, Chinese and Indian Ayurvedic physicians include it in treatments for arthritis and respiratory problems related to colds and flu. American and European herbalists also consider A. archangelica to be an effective menstrual regulator. The plant also acts as a warming expectorant and digestive tonic and a mild diuretic. It is prescribed for lung and bronchial ailments, constipation, and as a part of treatments for kidney and urinary infections. It is also recommended for reducing fever.
Mustard as Medicine: The role of mustard in modern herbal medicine is mostly that of counterirritant. When applied externally or internally, it induces a low-grade inflammation in which blood vessels dilate, and this increases blood slow to the area. When mustard is taken internally, this superficial irritation of tissues in the mouth, esophagus and stomach stimulates increased production of gastric acid. Once absorbed into the bloodstream, mustard’s irritants stimulate blood flow in all tissues; hence the familiar sensation of flushing and perspiration that often follows a hot, spicy meal. It’s no wonder that mustard is and has been considered a warming remedy. A tea made by soaking mustard seeds (yellow, brown or black) in hot water has been used to treat bronchitis, indigestion and constipation, but it must be taken sparingly: mustard’s benefit stems from it’s irritant properties, and an overdose can damage tissues in the digestive tract. A mustard foot bath (made by !
infusing 1 tablespoon of bruised seeds per quart of water) is thought to be good for arthritis and to help reduce fever. A mustard poultice (made by adding warm water to freshly ground seeds to form a thick paste) is often recommended for muscular or skeletal pain. If kept in contact with skin for too long, mustard will cause blistering. Early herbalists encouraged such blistering, believing that toxins were being drawn to the surface and could be removed by lancing the blisters, but modern herbalists generally reject that notion. Some recommend applying the poultice on top of a piece of cheesecloth moistened with water or olive oil to prevent the paste from sticking to the skin. In large quantities or when used regularly as a staple, mustard depresses thyroid function, so persons with hypothyroidism should avoid frequent or excessive use.
Goldenrod for health: Goldenrod’s reputation as a healing herb is reflected in its generic name: Solidago comes from the Latin word solidare meaning, “to make whole”. In this context, goldenrod only appears paradoxical. Goldenrod flowers have been used as a laxative and the seeds as a diarrhea remedy. Workers in fields of European goldenrod often experience skin irritation after as little as three hours’ exposure to the pollen, yet the plant is considered a remedy for chronic eczema. And considering the popular misconception that goldenrod pollen commonly causes summertime sneezing and sniffles, it’s ironic that European goldenrod has a long tradition as a catarrh remedy and is known to improve the general health of mucous membranes. Native Americans made ample use of several species of goldenrod. Some tribes made an infusion of flowers and leaves for fevers and chest pains, and others used the leaves as a poultice to relieve the pain of rheumatism and neuralgia. The Meskwaki (a Minnesota Fox tribe) made a lotion from the blossoms for bee stings and other painful swellings, while the Cherokee prepared a tea from one species to reduce fever and from another to treat bladder and kidney ailments. In the forests of Pennsylvania and New Jersey, where goldenrod is plentiful, Delaware tribes prepared a tea from early goldenrod to combat diarrhea and chewed the fresh green leaves for fevers. Houma tribes used a decoction of gray goldenrod roots to treat jaundice. Almost everywhere it grows, goldenrod has been used to treat disorders of the mouth and throat: The Zuni chewed the blossoms and swallowed the juice slowly for sore throats, and the Alabama poulticed the roots on aching teeth, as did white settlers in the Ozarks. The English used it to treat sores in the throat and mouth and to tighten loose teeth. During Elizabethan times, goldenrod was imported to England from the Middle East at high prices because of its effectiveness as a dental aid!
and periodontal medicine until the plant was discovered growing wild in the British Isles. The pharmaceutical uses of goldenrod did not escape the attention of the medical profession. Dr. J. Monroe, a nineteenth-century American physician, praised goldenrod as a “cleanser of the internal viscera” and claimed that it prevented consumption and dropsy. However, only one species – sweet goldenrod – caught on enough in official American medical circles to be included in the United States Pharmacopoeia from 1820 to 1882. Today, goldenrod is still highly regarded, especially among European and Asian herbal practitioners. The leaves of many Solidago species exhibit an astringency that makes them valuable in salves for wounds, sores and insect bites (hence the alternative name woundwort for European goldenrod), and a tea made from sweet goldenrod leaves has been used to treat digestive problems, fevers and urinary ailments. (Goldenrod is not recommended, however, in cases of kidney infection.) Sweet goldenrod flowers serve as a general tonic and a headache remedy. Both gray and European goldenrod has been prescribed as diuretics and stimulants, and the seeds especially have been used to relieve gas and heartburn. European goldenrod also appears in arthritis remedies, and its seeds in remedies for excessive menstrual flow. A goldenrod throat spray or gargle is available in many European countries. Though little research has been done in the United States on the efficacy of goldenrod as a medicinal herb, the essential oil has been shown to contain borneol, a volatile oil component also found in cardamom, valerian and thyme which is antiseptic, rubefacient (circulatory stimulant), and expectorant. Goldenrod also contains bioflavonoids, which are known to help control, certain kinds of hemorrhage by lowering blood pressure and decreasing capillary fragility, and which also assist in the absorption of vitamin C.The Herb Companion, August/September 1993. "An Herb to Know: Angelica" by Sharon L. Hagemann, pages 16-17. "The Amazing Mustard Seed: Food, Medicine and Magic Through the Ages" by Barbara Bassett, pages 33-37. "Goldenrod: A Paradoxical Native Weed With a Colorful Story" by Jill Jepson, pages 38-43.
Tue, 25 Jul 2000 From:Judy Booth<firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Upper Respiratory herbals & GARLIC
How much mint, garlic and onion tops
Just about as much as it will eat, Syl. No need to limit it, but best thing is to feed normally in the mornings, then let it munch it's head off in the late evening with the above. Anything left next morning remove. Rabbits can take some while to get used to garlic - if it will not eat it at first, rub a crushed garlic clove on the fur underneath the tail for a few days. This is also good for a rabbit which fails to keep it's vent area clean, or to ensure that a rabbit going to a show will be as clean when it arrives as when it left home. Judy. UK.
|Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 02:42:06 -0700
From: "Pamela Alley" <email@example.com>
Subject: Liquid cecotropes
Instead of 'treating' an animal with runny poops, try the following:
Bramble tips (blackberry or raspberry bushes)(take off the tender tips as far back as your thumbnail will take the stem off); feed about 3 tips a day.
Good clean grass hay of almost any description (oat, timothy, rye,wheat, wheatstraw), fed free choice in addition to a minimal ration of high quality balanced pellets such as those from Oxbow; and/or *mature* grass (seedheads should be up and out, NOT the lush stuff), fed at about one major stalk, sans seedheads, a day. You can use dallisgrass, orchard, timothy, oat, wheat..the point is palatable fiber, and lots of it.
Find a breeder near you who feeds the same basic pelleted ration as you do, and obtain some FRESH normal cecotropes from them (or from another normal rabbit in your own herd). DO NOT SMOOSH. Feed to the rabbit whole, immediately...and be prepared to wear a goodly amount of it.
Acidophilus is NOT a normal flora for the rabbit. Its only purpose is to help keep the gram negative toxin producing bacteria down by competition, and a higher-fiber, lower-carbohydrate diet will actually do a much better job long term.
After a couple of weeks or so on the new diet regime (CHANGE SLOWLY!!!), I personally would run a course of Albon (sulfadimethoxine, 5% suspension) to help get the gut microflora back to the balance it should have; the lactobacilli will not help here. This will also take care of any coccidia 'on the way by', as it were. Luck! PA
|Reasons Why The English Language Is Hard To Learn
1)The bandage was wound around the wound.
2) The farm was used to produce produce.
3) The dump was so full that it had to refuse more refuse.
4) We must polish the Polish furniture.
5) He could lead if he would get the lead out.
6) The soldier decided to desert his dessert in the desert.
7) Since there is no time like the present, he thought it was time to present the present.
8) A bass was painted on the head of the bass drum.
9) When shot at, the dove dove into the bushes.
10) I did not object to the object.
11) The insurance was invalid for the invalid.
12) There was a row among the oarsmen about how to row.
13) They were too close to the door to close it.
14) The buck does funny things when the does are present.
15) A seamstress and a sewer fell down into a sewer line.
16) To help with planting, the farmer taught his sow to sow.
17) The wind was too strong to wind the sail.
18) After a number of injections my jaw got number.
19) Upon seeing the tear in the painting I shed a tear.
20) I had to subject the subject to a series of tests.
21) How can I intimate this to my most intimate friend?
from Around the World
|Date: Sun,27 Aug 2000 From: "G.HUFFMON/C.CARNEY" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: conditioning for shows
All I do for conditioning is to give a good pellet ( we use PenPals rabbit food) and for those little darlings who want (or demand) a little extra I mix up a "treat feed" of regular (not quick) oats, steam rolled barley, black oil sunflower seeds and a little bit of dried banana chips (just take a handful put them in a zippy bag and smack them with a spoon until they are busted up--GREAT way to take out you aggressions!!!) :-) and top dress their pellets with a small spoonful of this. Sometimes I give a little apple or a little piece of carrot or if I can get them the carrot tops. as a treat. depending on the you have to watch the treat stuff as they can bulk up too much (I have hollands the little piggys of the rabbit world when it comes to treats) and get overweight.
For the coats I just put a little regular water on my hands( just dampen them--not wet) and run my hands over them from back to front a couple times. This keeps the loose hair out and the natural oils from you hands keeps them shiny!!!
All for now Carol Wazzata Hollands and Dwarfs
|From: G.HUFFMON/C.CARNEY email@example.com
Subject: lynx and fawn
Hi Pat, The difference other than color is that a fawn is a non-extension animal and the lynx is full color. The easiest way to tell the difference ( and this goes for any breed) is to check the belly color a fawn will be white to the skin and a lynx will have a gray undercolor next to the skin like any chestnut. Genetically a lynx is a lilac chestnut and will have the same color characteristics as a chestnut except diluted. A fawn is the dilute of orange which is a non extension of the chestnut. The recessive non-extension gene removes most of the dark pigment. Hope this helps Carol
|Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 From: "Mark & Jan Skerik" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Re: Does not raising kits
To: Steve Simpson, Australia
Make careful observations of the dead kits.
1. Were they born on their due date?
2. Did the doe make a nest for her litter?
3. Was it the doe's first litter?
4. Did the dead ones have bruises on them, particularly on the nose and mouth area?
5. Were the sacks still on them?
6. Were they born dead with their tongues stuck out and purple, indicating trauma during birth?
7. When kits are born with the sack still on, their forelegs and hind
legs (if still born) are usually
folded across each other. When they are born on
the wire, you can quickly teach yourself to know if they crawled
there or were stillborn.
Recently I obtained some oxytocin and began using it to induce those who developed a terrible record birthing their kits. Since the drug acts quickly, it enables you learn a lot about the trouble the doe experiences during birth. One of my Am. Fuzzy Lop does cleaned the first kits and was still trying to consume the afterbirth of that kit as the others were being born. She began choking on it as she went into respiratory distress. Luckily I had tended to the condition of the five kits she had delivered, taking the afterbirth from their heads when I noticed "mom" was in trouble. Her lips were turning blue as she struggled for the next breath yet she kept chewing away as she staggered around when I took her out of the nest box. I had to press under her rib cage when she inhaled to force the placenta up to a position where I could take it out of her mouth. This doe had a record of having 1 or 2 kits in the box while the rest would be dead on the wire, usually unclean.
Sometimes the nest would be wet, still containing the afterbirth of the kits in the box. By inducing her with 1/4 cc of oxytocin (4 lb doe) it was painfully obvious what was happening to her and feel lucky that I still have her today. She will be retired soon and I'll watch her daughters carefully at kindling time.
Oxytocin as available only by prescription from a licensed vet. You'll have to find one that will work with you in order to obtain it. All of you have heard the warnings about it's use but honestly I'd have to say that none of my does have gone into labor without being pregnant. The secret is to use a very small does on the 31st day after breeding. I usually write down the exact time she was bred and use the drug at exactly the same time, 31 days later.
If you can teach yourself to palpate her to confirm pregnancy, all the better. It is ideal if the doe has prepared her nest, otherwise you'll have to pluck her tummy before you give the injection. It only takes 20 minutes (or less) for the hormone to take effect. Sometimes I put the doe on a towel in her cage so I can watch closely. It's hard to make sure she has cleaned them if she's in the nest.
Of course those of you in other countries may not be raising your rabbits in "all wire cages" like we do here in the states. My friends in Sweden tell me it is illegal to house rabbits on wire floors. It is entirely possible
you may prefer to put your does on straw floors if they refuse to make their nest in the box. It is totally un natural for a rabbit to use nest boxes when you think about it. They dig underground in the wild so it's not
necessarily a bad thing if they want to have a cage covered in straw, just make sure you put a floor in the cage or the straw will not fall through, the kits could end up on the ground before you know it.
Jan Skerik American Fuzzy Lops
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Holland Lops For Sale
I raise Holland Lops in blue tort, tort, black, blue,
siamese sable, sable point, smoke pearl, fawn, lynx, these colors in broken
and blue eyed whites.
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I NEED A NESTBOX FOR MY RABBIT!
The first home for a new baby bunny is the nestbox. It’s very important to the future of your Rabbitry that each expecting doe has a comfortable nestbox for her delivery. The size of the nest and the material used for constructing are the two main concerns.
We offer two basic sizes of nestboxes. The 8”x12” is for smaller breeds and the 10”x14” is for larger breeds. Larger boxes are available on special order. If the box is too small, the doe may not be able to fit inside. If the box is too large, some kits may not be able to nurse. Sometimes the little ones move around the box and may miss a meal or two. Rabbits usually only feed their young once a day. It is important to keep the babies in one small nest area so they can find Mom. A nestbox should be 2” long and 2” wider than the doe.
Boxes are constructed of wood, wire or metal. We make our wooden boxes with ½’x1” welded wire for bottoms. We will add a piece of cardboard initially for the birth. We put about 2” of clean pin shavings on the cardboard and fill the box with good clean hay. We can remove the cardboard about 10 days later and replace the nesting materials with clean hay. This will help keep the box cleaner longer. Urine and droppings fall through the bottom and babies should not be eating dirty hay.
The does can chew wooden boxes. Wood also can absorb moisture or urine and hold disease problems. Cleaning and disinfecting boxes between litters is necessary for any type of nestbox. You soak or spray the box with a bleach solution (1/2 cup to a gallon of water) and then let them dry in the sun.
Wire and metal boxes are easier to keep clean and rabbits do not chew them up. Some people feel the metal is cooler than wood on those cold winter nights. If the doe built the interior of the nest properly, the kits stay very warm. On hot summer days, it’s important to help keep the kits a little cooler. You may have to remove some of the fur the doe has pulled from the nest.
Some breeders use box liners to help keep nestboxes cleaner. Nest box warmers are also a helpful item of use on cold nights. It is a flat metal plate that slips under the box or cage. It has coils webbed throughout and uses very little electricity. The heater stays at around 92 degrees.
One method of keeping the babies comfortable is to move the nestbox with the kits into a controlled environment room. WE use a nursery area with the thermostat set at 85 degrees. We set the boxes on shelves and cover the box opening with a piece of ½”x1” wire (so the babies can’t escape). We mark each box with the does name to help avoid confusion. We take the boxes to the Moms each morning. We leave it with the doe for about 15 minutes and then move it back into the nursery. Once it warms up or when the kits have enough fur to keep themselves warm, we will leave the boxes with the doe.
The really large breeds of rabbits require special larger boxes to
accommodate them. You need to also make sure the cage door hole is wide enough
for the box to fit through. We have expert nestbox builders who can make just
about any size nestbox out of wood. Let us know if we can help you with your
Moms and brand new babies. VBF
w/1/2”x1” wire bottom
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